Zimbabwe

Lining up for the supermarket

Women with babies





Great Zimbabwe ruins

Victoria Falls

Somewhere over the rainbow

*** Zimbabwe ***

* First impressions *

When I left Mozambique, I exchanged $20US for Zimbabwean dollars on the
unofficial black market (at 15 times the government’s official rate). I
was handed a wad of cash 1.5cm thick, as the largest bank note is
effectively 40 cents US (thanks to the ongoing hyperinflation)!

I arrived to the small city of Mutare and spent a couple of days here
acclimatising. At first glance everything seemed normal, but visiting
the supermarkets and finding most of the shelves bare was a reality
check. I later discovered you can still buy some of the basic foods on
the black market at the right price, you just need to know where or who
to ask.

* Transport difficulties and stolen wallet *

From Mutare, I went on to visit the Great Zimbabwe Ruins. But finding
transport was a challenge due to fuel shortages. I managed to get on a
jam-packed bus, but it broke down just as it was leaving. I then
attempted to hitch with numerous other locals, but no luck. I noticed a
smaller bus going to the halfway point, so I flagged it down and got on
(this proved to be a mistake). From the half way point I again tried to
get on a larger bus. As soon as one arrived, everyone ran towards it and
pushed and shoved to try and get on, including me! In the chaos I had my
wallet pick-pocketed. When I realized, I shouted for help to everybody
(including a policeman sitting on the bus who wouldn’t dare vacate his
precious seat), but all I got were blank stares initially, until a local
man told me to hang around and said my wallet would be found. Sure
enough this was true and thankfully I got everything back except for
250,000 Zimbabwean dollars (or 50 cents US). What a relief!

The delay meant there were now no more buses, and after trying to hitch
for an hour I gave up and kindly asked if I could pitch my tent in the
local shopkeeper’s dusty backyard. I had a good chat with my hosts, who
had just returned from across the border to buy biscuits for their shop
(as they’re hard to find in Zimbabwe). The next morning I was up at dawn
waiting for the first bus. When it arrived, I ran like the wind with my
backpack on and luckily got a standing spot for the 2 hour journey!

* Great Zimbabwe Ruins *

I finally got to the ruins and was quite impressed. There are numerous
ruined rock structures that are about 800 years old and formed part of a
fortified city, with separate king’s quarters up on the mountainside.
There’s also a great circular enclosure, where the rock walls are 4.5m
thick and 11m high.

* Overnight train and Victoria Falls *

Moving on, I again had to run for a bus, before getting on an overnight
train to Vic Falls. The train ride was a comparatively luxurious (and an
absolute bargain for a cabin thanks to the official/unofficial exchange
rate disparity). Victoria Falls was a sight to behold (even in the dry
season) as the mighty Zambezi river falls 100m into a spectacular gorge
it’s created.

Here I was also befriended by a local as I wandered through the local
makeshift markets. We had a good chat about the Zimbabwe situation andwe went back to his house for a drink and some fruit.