Botswana

Hitching on the back of a ute

Poling along the Okavango Delta



Okavango Delta on 'mokoro' canoe

Elephant Dung

*** Botswana ***

* Hitch hiking *

Arriving on a Sunday with a couple of Irish lasses, we hitched 600km to
Maun, a town just below the Okavango delta. Our first hitch for 300km
was on the back of a ute (pick-up). It was fun for the first 10 minutes,
but 3 hours later at 120km/h we felt like we were blown to bits. Our
next hitch was with a guy who lost his licence, so I had to drive his
car past the police road block!

* Okavango Delta – 3 day canoe ‘mokoro’ trip *

After a fun speedboat ride up the main river, we started our ‘mokoro’
trip at the bottom of the impressive inland delta, where the Okavango
river from Angola drains into the sandy earth. We travelled in
traditional dug-out ‘mokoro’ canoes that were poled along by our guides.
In this part of the delta, there are uncountable islands of different
sizes surrounded by reed filled waterways and channels. Travelling
through this terrain sitting down in a mokoro is some experience.

On our first day we enjoyed a couple of great swims in the crystal clear
channel waters. We spotted a few elephants having a mud bath in the
reeds, as well as some hippos in a gorgeous lagoon full of flowering
water lilies.

Arriving to our first camp at the end of a reedy bay, there were
elephants nearby, and one nearly walked into our camp before he realised
we were there. Our water source was a reedy pool that had a few bits of
elephant dung floating in it! The next day we went on an early morning
bushwalk around the island. There were animals grazing everywhere in the
more arid centre of the island. We saw elephants, giraffes, zebras,
numerous antelope, baboons, a herd of stampeding buffalo and even a
wildcat. Plus a lost baby elephant came running at us, so we ran away
too. Walking without any protection amongst these animals in their
natural habitat was truly awesome and a little scary at times.

We lazed about during the stifling afternoon heat, before setting off
for our second camp on a small island surrounded by reeds. Along the way
we saw a giraffe in the reeds, as well as some more elephants and
hippos. On our final day, we explored a little more of the delta, and
again cooled off with a couple of swims. This trip was a definite
highlight!

Zimbabwe

Lining up for the supermarket

Women with babies





Great Zimbabwe ruins

Victoria Falls

Somewhere over the rainbow

*** Zimbabwe ***

* First impressions *

When I left Mozambique, I exchanged $20US for Zimbabwean dollars on the
unofficial black market (at 15 times the government’s official rate). I
was handed a wad of cash 1.5cm thick, as the largest bank note is
effectively 40 cents US (thanks to the ongoing hyperinflation)!

I arrived to the small city of Mutare and spent a couple of days here
acclimatising. At first glance everything seemed normal, but visiting
the supermarkets and finding most of the shelves bare was a reality
check. I later discovered you can still buy some of the basic foods on
the black market at the right price, you just need to know where or who
to ask.

* Transport difficulties and stolen wallet *

From Mutare, I went on to visit the Great Zimbabwe Ruins. But finding
transport was a challenge due to fuel shortages. I managed to get on a
jam-packed bus, but it broke down just as it was leaving. I then
attempted to hitch with numerous other locals, but no luck. I noticed a
smaller bus going to the halfway point, so I flagged it down and got on
(this proved to be a mistake). From the half way point I again tried to
get on a larger bus. As soon as one arrived, everyone ran towards it and
pushed and shoved to try and get on, including me! In the chaos I had my
wallet pick-pocketed. When I realized, I shouted for help to everybody
(including a policeman sitting on the bus who wouldn’t dare vacate his
precious seat), but all I got were blank stares initially, until a local
man told me to hang around and said my wallet would be found. Sure
enough this was true and thankfully I got everything back except for
250,000 Zimbabwean dollars (or 50 cents US). What a relief!

The delay meant there were now no more buses, and after trying to hitch
for an hour I gave up and kindly asked if I could pitch my tent in the
local shopkeeper’s dusty backyard. I had a good chat with my hosts, who
had just returned from across the border to buy biscuits for their shop
(as they’re hard to find in Zimbabwe). The next morning I was up at dawn
waiting for the first bus. When it arrived, I ran like the wind with my
backpack on and luckily got a standing spot for the 2 hour journey!

* Great Zimbabwe Ruins *

I finally got to the ruins and was quite impressed. There are numerous
ruined rock structures that are about 800 years old and formed part of a
fortified city, with separate king’s quarters up on the mountainside.
There’s also a great circular enclosure, where the rock walls are 4.5m
thick and 11m high.

* Overnight train and Victoria Falls *

Moving on, I again had to run for a bus, before getting on an overnight
train to Vic Falls. The train ride was a comparatively luxurious (and an
absolute bargain for a cabin thanks to the official/unofficial exchange
rate disparity). Victoria Falls was a sight to behold (even in the dry
season) as the mighty Zambezi river falls 100m into a spectacular gorge
it’s created.

Here I was also befriended by a local as I wandered through the local
makeshift markets. We had a good chat about the Zimbabwe situation andwe went back to his house for a drink and some fruit.

Mozambique

Maputo fish market

Sunrise at Vilankulo, over the Indian Ocean

Fishing at Vilankulo

Banguara Island, near Vilankulo and the local 'dhow' I sailed on

** Maputo, Mozambique **

Moving on, I went across the border to Maputo, Mozambique. I’d arrangeda lift with one of Leanne's friends, and we had a big night out in afew classy and not so classy pubs. It was interesting to see how some'white' South Africans view the racial divide. I didn't think much ofMaputo, except for the nice seaside location, and headed up north toTofo.

** Tofo & Vilankulo **

In Tofo I camped for a few nights beside the beach at this idyllicseaside small town. The highlight was going for a snorkel with the whalesharks that swim the nearby waters eating up the abundant plankton. Itwas just awesome to swim with these 7-9 metre long fish as theyleisurely feast along.

Moving up the coast a bit further, I arrived to Vilankulo, anothersmallish town set on a beautiful beach. I again camped near the beachseeing some brilliant sunrises over the beach at low-tide that isinterspersed with the local 'dhow' sailing boats at anchor. I arranged atrip out to the nearby islands on one of the 'dhow' sail boats with afew local fishermen. Arriving to the sands of the island was excellent,where I went swimming in a gorgeous lagoon and snorkelled with sometropical fish. I also spent a morning fishing with the fisherman justoff the coast, unfortunately our catch was lots of undersized fish, butstill worth keeping and eating (as I later found out).

I hope to head to Zimbabwe tomorrow, but more on that later...

Kruger National Park

Hippo mum and baby

Elephant munching away on branches

Lesotho

Typical Lesotho house

** Lesotho **

My next mission was to travel across Lesotho, to see how different lifewas in the mountains. I attempted hitching from South Africa, butresorted to the minibuses again to travel up the amazing Sani Pass - a4WDroad that winds its way up to Lesotho. I stayed in the small andisolated town of Mokhotlong, where people were walking all over theroad. The town was very simple with a couple of basic shops thatsupported the neighbouring villagers from simple farms. They mostlylived in small round stone houses with thatched roofing. I stayed in aguest house where you wash in buckets and use pit toilets.

I then got delayed in another interesting Lesotho town, as I waited fora minibus to Johannesburg. The town was quite disgusting and hadnumerous shops or street side stalls that had the latest local musiccraze blasting out onto the road.

Drakensberg Hiking

Drakensburg

Chris hiking in Drakensberg escarpment

Shephard in Lesotho mountains

Mauritius

Mauritius resort bubble bath

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Durban, South Africa

Chris on beach at Durban, South Africa

** Sydney to Africa, via Mauritius **

Flying with Air Mauritius to Africa, I enjoyed a free overnight stay ina luxurybeachside resort with some fine dining and an oversized bubble bath!Pity I knew this would be a stark contrast to the rest of my trip.

** Durban **

I arrived to Durban and got my first 'taste' of South Africa, a place ofdiffering standards for those with or without opportunity. I exploredthecity and beach on foot during the day (as is was unsafe to do so atnight) and also tried the watch a game of World Cup 20/20 Cricket, butunfortunately it was rained out.

** Drakensburg hiking **

I then set off in the local jam-packed minibuses for the DrakensburgMountains. Here I ventured out on a solo 5 day hike in the mountainrange,where an impressive cliff-faced escarpment that reaches an altitude of3500m and forms a natural border between South Africa and Lesotho. Istarted in South Africa and ascended through the escarpment, passing bymany impressive rock formations. I then travelled along the undulatingtops, bumping into a few Lesotho shepherds who were dressed in blankets(Ialso had to watch out for a few bandits who had recently been stoningpeople, but luckily I didn’t see them). Coming back down, I spent a daywalking along the grassy rolling hills below the escarpment beforeheading out to see some ancient cave paintings of various animals. I wasalso lucky to stay in a couple of characteristic hostels that hadthatched roofs, a resident bat inside and excellent views.

** Johannesburg **

I eventually made it to J’burg at night time and was taken through thedowntown area where I was not to get out of the minibus. I waspicked up by a friend, Colin, who took me to his family's home in asecuredand fortified suburb. We enjoyed a mountain bike ride throughJohannesburg Botanical Gardens and a great family 'brai' (barbeque)out by the pool in their backyard.

** Kruger National Park **

Next stop was the famous Kruger National Park. Here I stayed with myfriend Leanne who lived in Marloth Park, a reserve right beside Kruger.Arriving to her place, there were zebras, impalas and warthogs roamingaround!I joined a guided day-tour and was amazed by how many animals we saw,including giraffe, elephants, lions, rhinos, hippos, wildebeests andmanybirds. It was simply amazing to see these animals in their naturalhabitat and they weren't scared of the numerous cars. I also joined anight tour where you use big spotlights to find the animals. That nightspotting a hyena running along, and number rhinos. After a big night inthe local pub with Leanne, I went on a morning drive where we cameacross the more elusive leopards and cheetahs!