Wednesday, November 7, 2007

Malawi


Lake Malawi
Sunset from ferry on Lake Malawi

Drinking local beer 'shake-shake' in Malawi

Friendly children at Lake Malawi
Fishing canoe

Washing at Monkey Bay, Lake Malawi


Local matola transport in Malawi

Mulanje Valley
Chris hiking in misty Mulanje
Tuchilo hut in cloudy Mulanje
Mulanje mountain tops

Chris at creek in Mulanje forest
*** Malawi ***

* Mulanje Mountains *

I travelled from Zambia into Malawi on some uncomfortably squashed
minibuses to the Mulanje Mountains. For the last leg I was jammed on the
back of a small pick-up truck with people, luggage, supplies and
chickens in some light rain. I set off on a 4 day hut-based hike into
this giant massif that rises from the surrounding low-land tea
plantations. I walked up through the wet forest into the clouds, losing
my way a little, to reach a beaut hut in the mountains enveloped in
mist. I then ascended the highest peak during a clear morning for great
views over the rocky mountains and approaching clouds. Finally I walked
through the heart of the mountains to reach a small village on the other
side. It was interesting to see how the people lived, each with their
own small vegetable patch.

* Lake Malawi *

On the way up to Lake Malawi, I spent a night camped at a lodge beside a
river where the hippos come up to the camp to graze at night! I then
arrived to a lakeside town near a pretty beach where the main livelihood
is fishing from this enormous freshwater lake. From here I boarded the
weekly ferry for a couple of days as it zigzagged its way up this
beautiful lake. It passes by many isolated fishing villages, including a
few on the Mozambique side and a couple of small inhabited islands. It
was a great way to see the lake. I disembarked at Nkhata Bay and spent a
couple of days lazing by the lake and snorkelling in the warm waters,
seeing many tropical fish feasting on the algae.

* Food and drink *

I’ve been eating at many of the local restaurants, often crammed out the
back of the local markets. The staple for the region is ground maize
which they have cooked with meat, fish, chicken or vegetables, often in
stews. It’s often quite nice. I’ve also tried the local beer made from
sorghum and ground maize, but I could hardly stomach a few mouthfuls!

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